Fiber cement is tough, but it isn’t waterproof at a cut edge or touching the ground. Most problems trace back to a handful of installation details.
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Most Hardie siding problems come from installation, not the boards: siding too close to the ground, roof or patio, missing kickout flashing where a roof meets a wall, unsealed cut edges, overdriven nails or open butt joints. James Hardie’s instructions call for at least 6 inches of clearance to the ground and about 1 to 2 inches to roofs, decks and paths; fixing the detail usually fixes the problem.
| What you see | Likely cause |
|---|---|
| Swollen or crumbling bottom edges | Too close to soil, mulch, a patio or the roof; water wicks into the board |
| Rot and stains below a roof line | No kickout flashing where the roof ends at a wall |
| Peeling paint at board ends | Cut edges not sealed or painted |
| Cracks at nails | Overdriven nails or nailing too close to the edge |
| Open or stained butt joints | No joint flashing behind the joint, or failed caulk |
| Loose or rattling boards | “High” nailing that missed the board below |
Damaged boards are cut out and replaced, with every cut edge primed and painted. The cause gets fixed at the same time: adding kickout flashing, lowering soil or mulch, trimming boards off a roof or slab, and re-flashing joints. Repainted repairs are matched to the existing color as closely as possible. See repair or replace.
Usually because it sits too close to the ground, a slab or the roof and absorbs water. James Hardie calls for at least 6 inches of clearance to the ground.
The warranty covers the product. Problems caused by installation that doesn’t follow the manufacturer’s instructions may not be covered, so the installer’s workmanship matters.
Yes. Individual boards can be removed and replaced, then sealed and painted to match.
This guide is general information for Texas homeowners, not legal or insurance advice. Your policy, your city and your house decide the details.
